There are few places in the world with a better network of public footpaths than Britain. And there are few companies better at sharing their passion for walking in the English countryside than The Wayfarers.
In early June, I headed to South West England for a picture-perfect, eight-day walking vacation across Dartmoor and Exmoor National Parks. We were a small convivial group: Four of us, all repeat walkers. It is my fifth walk. Longtime friends, Pat Renucci and Wendy Kersman had joined up for their sixth. And Glen Sullivan, a retired San Diego lawyer, boasted an impressive 14, soon to be 15, Wayfarers’ walks beneath his boots.
Our days on the trail settled into a comfortable routine. Early each morning, we’d congregate in the hotel dining room for breakfast. By 9AM we were traipsing over Hill and Dale, ambling alongside chattering rivers, across ancient footpaths, and through thatched hamlets and deep valleys eons in the making.
Ellen Barone is an American writer and wanderer. She co-founded and publishes the group travel blog YourLifeIsATrip.com and is currently at work on her first book "I Could Live Here".
Georgia O’Keeffe has been quoted as saying “If you ever go to New Mexico, it will itch you for the rest of your life.” Artists can be prone to exaggeration, but on this point I tend to agree with the lady. There is a magic at work here, a subtle yet powerful influence that is more than the high desert light.
A friend in Santa Fe says that she “lives to leave.” I’ll never understand that, for my heart sings when I’m in New Mexico in a way that’s hard to talk about without sounding foolish, annoyingly evangelical, or like a lowlander high on altitude. So, in the spirit of full disclosure let me say this: I am not an impartial journalist writing about a New Mexico walking vacation. I’m a twelve-year resident head over my cowgirl boots in love with the big sky, adobe charms and quirky characters of my adopted homeland.
“I had no idea,” says Maria, a well-traveled executive from Chicago, and one of seven vacationers joining this mid-September walk with The Wayfarers. “Of course, I’d heard of Santa Fe, but I’m blown away by the natural beauty, diversity and history of this place.”
I know what she means. The first summer I spent in New Mexico, I felt like I’d landed in a foreign country. The low-slung mud brick architecture, the melodic rhythm of Native and Hispanic languages, mañana mind-set and dramatic landscape were alien to my suburban life back East. Vast and exotic, New Mexico is a land of wild places and ancient cultures teeming with authenticity (not multitudes) where pristine light, towering mountains and a combination of cultures, history and landscape exists unlike anywhere else.
Ellen Barone is an American writer and wanderer. She co-founded and publishes the group travel blog YourLifeIsATrip.com and is currently at work on her first book "I Could Live Here".
bodacious: adj. excellent, admirable, or attractive. ORIGIN: Boldacious. Blend of BOLD and AUDACIOUS.” - Oxford English Dictionary, 11th edition.
“I’m off to the Bugaboos.” Just saying it, feels bodacious; though I am neither bold nor audacious by nature. What I am, unfortunately, is heavier than I’d like (thanks to a love affair with chocolate), and I can rationalize my way out of a morning run faster than you can say Mocha Grande. So why am I traveling solo to the Canadian Rockies for a Bodacious Girlfriend Getaway heli-hiking and yoga vacation. Why not?
The simple purity and intense beauty of the West has long been a place where dream seekers can indulge such brazen fantasies unfettered by the hard facts of reality. Turning intimidating concepts into inspiring life-enhancing adventures, in fact, is what Canadian Mountain Holidays (CMH), has been doing since 1965 when they first started ferrying skiers by helicopter into the remote mountains of British Columbia.
“Welcome to my office,” says Lyle Grisedale, a professional CMH hiking guide and designated ‘bodacious bro’ on our women-only getaway. A courteous bon vivant with enough Irish devilment in him to fit right in with the girls, Grisedale is equal parts superhero, spiritual guru and mountain goat. Beyond his outstretched arm, tower the wild and jagged peaks of the Bugaboos –a granite mountain range in the Purcell Mountains of eastern British Columbia. A stunning land-sea of serrated ridges, turquoise lakes, lush meadows, and blue-tinged glaciers surround us.
Only a few hours earlier, I’d scrambled aboard a twin-engine Bell 212, 14-passenger helicopter at the CMH helipad (near Radium Hot Springs) after a scenic two-hour drive from Banff. The ten-minute flight to the Bugaboo Lodge, one of 11 self-sufficient, eco-sensitive lodges run by CMH, provided a thrilling, IMAX view of snow-capped peaks, evergreen forests, glistening snowfields, and wildflower-filled valleys sandwiched between rocky ridges. By comparison, it would have taken two full days of hard walking to cover the same distance.
Ellen Barone is an American writer and wanderer. She co-founded and publishes the group travel blog YourLifeIsATrip.com and is currently at work on her first book "I Could Live Here".
words + pictures by Ellen Barone
Sometime after the 15,000 – 17,000 year-old cave paintings, right before the black truffle walnuts, my feet quit hurting. I lift my eyes to see the beauty of the view before me; an ancient landscape of imposing castles, lush farmland and cliffside villages that make the Dordogne one of France’s most inspiring regions. In the distance, the Dordogne River curves gently around a bend beneath a mist-shrouded château, then out of sight.
My sister, Kathy, and I snap photo after photo as we walk a centuries-old trail, through fields of drying corn and a backdrop of prehistoric caves and limestone cliffs, toward the village of La Roque Gageac, our base for the next two nights. Late afternoon honey hued light bathes the overhanging cliffs, home to human occupation some 400,000 years back to the days of the Neanderthals. It’s been a twelve-mile day, our third, and my body is thriving on a menu of sunshine, fresh air and physical exertion. It is for exactly this that we have chosen a walking vacation.
Ellen Barone is an American writer and wanderer. She co-founded and publishes the group travel blog YourLifeIsATrip.com and is currently at work on her first book "I Could Live Here".
I’m just back from a walking tour in Provence with The Wayfarers and am still savoring the magical moments and remain bedazzled by all that I saw, ate and experienced.
The trip was chock-a-block with Impressionist landscapes of gnarled olive trees, endless horizons of bright orange poppies and vineyard rows, the wonderful, warm and sometimes irascible characters made famous by Peter Mayle’s books, picture-perfect hilltop villages, and of course, the famed Provençal cuisine.
There were eight of us: an affable group of outdoorsy, inquisitive Americans ranging in age from 40ish to 70-something. We spent our days rambling down sleepy rural tracks, shaded forest trails and ancient village streets, chatting with friendly farmers and locals, and lingering over delicious café lunches.
A walk with The Wayfarers falls into my new favorite category of travel, “luxury adventure.” Which is to say that, après hike, we got to take a relaxing bath, enjoy a gourmet dinner, drink fine French wine and sleep in the comfort of a luxury hotel. Life was good!
Hard to capture the complexity, the camaraderie, and the richness of a week spent walking through an aromatic landscape of flowering broom and wild herbs, attuning my ear to the melodious lilt of Provençal French and falling under the spell of flattering Frenchmen in a single blog, but suffice it to say, I’m already dreaming about the next trip….Tuscany, 2009 anyone?
P.S. Click here for photos.
For More Information: The Wayfarers (800-249-4620; www.thewayfarers.com). Walking vacations include six to twelve nights in luxury accommodations and characteristic country inns & hotels, all meals (including wine with dinner) and on-trail snacks and refreshments, gratuities at hotels and restaurants, full-time services of both a walk leader and manager, support vehicle and all transfers (ferries, taxis, trains, etc.) as specified. Walking vacations range from $1,950 to $4,995 per person, double occupancy.
Ellen Barone is an American writer and wanderer. She co-founded and publishes the group travel blog YourLifeIsATrip.com and is currently at work on her first book "I Could Live Here".