words + pictures by Ellen Barone
When Jean-Baptiste Lamy came to Santa Fe in 1851 as the first bishop of the Southwest diocese, he bought a parcel of land along the Little Tesuque stream, a few miles north of Santa Fe, for his country retreat. Today that refuge is Bishop’s Lodge Ranch Resort & Spa, a luxury ranch resort boasting 91 years of hospitality.
I’d been plotting a Bishop’s Lodge stay for years, but never quite found the time for it. So, when a WORDHARVEST writer’s workshop took me to Santa Fe, my husband, Hank, and I extended our visit for two additional nights for a stay at the lodge. We were not disappointed.
Last summer, I enjoyed a guided horseback ride through the lodge’s historic stables, open to guests and non-guests. Trailing through piñon and juniper forests, atop scenic mesas and to 360-degree vistas that encompassed the natural beauty of the vast ranch and surrounding region was incredible experienced on the back of a gentle trail horse. Read “Call of the Mild” and learn more about that Santa Fe adventure, and more.
On the west side of the famed Teton mountains, the living is easy at Teton Springs Lodge & Spa.
Each year, more than five million visitors succumb to the scenic allure of Jackson Hole, Wyoming, cranking its tourist trade – and accommodation prices - into overdrive. Thankfully, I recently discovered, just over the mountains, on the west side of the Tetons, slower ways and budget-friendly hospitality can still be found.
But that doesn’t mean you’re in for the cheap-seat treatment. Concierge service, 300 count Italian cotton sheets, high speed wireless Internet, gas fireplaces and fully equipped kitchens come standard in the one or two bedroom suites at Teton Springs Lodge & Spa, a 52-room luxury base camp ideally situated for exploring the surrounding Teton Valley.
The friendly local staff, however, is the real amenity. They suggest the best restaurants, arrange fly fishing and horseback riding adventures, create gourmet meals and lead morning yoga sessions, custom created to limber you up for a trek in the forest or day on the slopes. And, here’s the rub, when you’ve had enough, their Stillwaters Spa therapists will rub, scrub and massage the life back into you so you can do it all again the next day.
Think Teton Valley is only a summertime destination? Think again. My October visit was perfect with its photogenic mix of autumn colors against the backdrop of freshly fallen snow. Did it stop me from casting a line or hitting the trails for horseback riding? No way. Better yet, the reward was ample wildlife sightings and a healthy dose of crisp clean air.
MUST-DOS: Take a Grand Teton National Park Wildlife Safari with resort naturalist Kurt Johnson. If there are eagles, antelope, wolves or moose to be spotted, he’ll find them. Or, try your hand at fly fishing with Worldcast Anglers for a guided adventure on the south fork of the Snake River, rated as the top cutthroat stream in the West. Book the rosemary, sage and eucalyptus Alpine Massage with Lori at Stillwaters Spa. It’s heavenly! Try the carrot ginger soup and the fish taco plate at Miso Hungry Restaurant (165 N. Main Street, Driggs, Idaho). And, OMG, don’t miss the brandy creamed local organic mushrooms with crispy polenta starter or no flour chocolate cake at the Sun Dog Deli & Café (57 S. Main Street, Victor, Idaho). Looking for the latest and greatest in adventure clothing, check out the top-name selection on tap at Yostmark Mountain Equipment (12 East Little, Driggs, Idaho).