words + pictures by Ellen Barone
Sometime after the 15,000 – 17,000 year-old cave paintings, right before the black truffle walnuts, my feet quit hurting. I lift my eyes to see the beauty of the view before me; an ancient landscape of imposing castles, lush farmland and cliffside villages that make the Dordogne one of France’s most inspiring regions. In the distance, the Dordogne River curves gently around a bend beneath a mist-shrouded château, then out of sight.
My sister, Kathy, and I snap photo after photo as we walk a centuries-old trail, through fields of drying corn and a backdrop of prehistoric caves and limestone cliffs, toward the village of La Roque Gageac, our base for the next two nights. Late afternoon honey hued light bathes the overhanging cliffs, home to human occupation some 400,000 years back to the days of the Neanderthals. It’s been a twelve-mile day, our third, and my body is thriving on a menu of sunshine, fresh air and physical exertion. It is for exactly this that we have chosen a walking vacation.
Ellen Barone is an American writer and wanderer. She co-founded and publishes the group travel blog YourLifeIsATrip.com and is currently at work on her first book "I Could Live Here".